Outback '01 2.5 4eat VDC project

So couple years ago i bought myself my first subaru ever and after long time thinking took outback against forester. Didint had budget for newer one so went for some 2nd gen that i found

Top original, lower 2"" lift with BFG TA KO2 215/65 R16
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It was 2001 subaru outback 2.5 4eat eith rear LSD and early VDC package. All weather with heated seats, windows, climate control.
It has rear self leveling shocks still ok condition so i left them just put 2" spacer on top. Not sure is it made car harder and less comfy but it can take load very well. But its not soft car to drive fast on bad roads
Then i cut front bumper and put steel skid plate just for engine. Diy it myself from steel sheet from scrapyard
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One of these days you will go over a bump and leave the back half of the car behind! That rust looks terminal!
 
It does look but untill that subframe thing is keeping all in place its still ok well kinda.for now. Its sad for me too but im still lifting my car via rear with hi lift means its holding
 
scalman said:
It does look but untill that subframe thing is keeping all in place its still ok well kinda.for now. Its sad for me too but im still lifting my car via rear with hi lift means its holding
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I wouldn't be climbing underneath it while it's on the high lift jack!
 
you think of it worse then it is. its not just brake in half or anything. all stuff that i did looked bad there and even worse parts where subframe holds. i do this to cover all holes or most and make it less noisy inside. with all new metal it will hold for some time and it was just start i will work on it more today. if i would have money i would just go and by myself 2011 outback or some grand sherokee ... something like those. but i dont. and i never guy cheaper and but older subaru like forester even if its no rust.
that thing where hi lift goes in its not hold like on trunk its like on its own frame it has there thick metal its where tow hook screws in and that part still kinda ok . its not like if i pull other cars i will rip off my rear because its not attached to just rear part , not like those oem rear tow hooks they are atached just to rear and they could ripp off rear part , but mine is not . so until that strong part like frame is ok you can like hook up new metal to it and then from those to others and so on you could for some time at least make it work again. But sure im not that stupid not saying that car is ok and fine i know its bad but its kinda learning ground for me i will do worse rust weldings on it and stuff to know how it is in worse situations.
 
Keep doing that good work you're doing. I wish I had your skills.
 
enough of fixing car its time to relax and have some good time over lake ...
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and yes i drove 150 km just to lakes to do that and then sdame distance go back home ... not that i cant do that closer to home i could but its not same. i just like that area and its brings me good memories , so when everyone asks me why i go so far to cook sausages on fire i just need to do that ... and i love driving
 
scalman said:
and yes i drove 150 km just to lakes to do that and then sdame distance go back home ... not that i cant do that closer to home i could but its not same. i just like that area and its brings me good memories , so when everyone asks me why i go so far to cook sausages on fire i just need to do that ... and i love driving
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I regularly take a route that takes me two hours longer to get to a friend's house than on the bitumen because driving and scenery. the 'quick' ocean road takes me a shade over an hour.
Mind you, the scenery is pretty spectacular on the ocean road too, even though I've traveled it over a 1000 times.

I'd have no problems driving a hundred km's or so if there was a sausage on a stick waiting for me at the other end!
It was pretty much a right of passage when I was a kid to drive from Adelaide to Murray bridge for a hamburger (about 80kms it used to be) in the middle of the night. Murray Bridge wasn't much of a place then - don't think it's changed either, the only interesting thing was the bridge. Hamburgers were OK, it was more about the drive.
 
changing front lift spacers from 5cm to 6cm. redoing off set too.
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Please put something under the car in cse it falls off the jack... :)
 
Even if it's just the wheel. At the very least I would slide the wheel under the jacking point near the front door ;-)
 
Why you think hi lidt jack could fail there? I mean its metal locked with metal pins. What could go wrong there? And yes i normaly put wheel under car but this time i wasnt. Yes its on grass but i locked rear wheels so car dont move forward or backward.
 
We are concerned for your safety and would not want you injured. Hi Lift jacks are dangerous and have a reputation for causing many injuries. You are very experienced in using a Hi Lift jack so that is a good thing.
 
I've seen them fail - get bumped out of position and fall over (or someone bumping the vehilce). It's quite exciting but you wouldn't want to be underneath at the time.

I've also seen people knock them out because it's quicker than lowering it the proper way.

I agree, chances of it slipping in your particluar situation is unlikely. but it's certainly not worth the risk. Plus not taking precautions everytime means you're less likely to take precautions when they're needed.
 
Sure but it depends how its used what adapter is it just hooks and lift under bumper or or is it goes inside other square tube so its kinda locked no? Sure i saw them bend with heavy 4wd cars too but this is not heavy car.
But we allways need to keep things safe i know just i feel that car its safer on this then it would be on same tripod type thing that i have too. But try to use it on grass on uneaven surface and when ground going downhill is tricky. Sure put tire and some planks is not tricky sure but its extra work i mean i loft car quite high so wheel is noy enough i need almost double height what wheel gives there so need some planks then and then need to do needed height and such.
This is very fast put hi lift square tube into cars tube and bam car is in air. Somehow i didint saw any other adapter for hi lift as i made . others just using round tube at best and most adapters just hooks under heavy bumper again its not locked.
What can be better jack adapter locking then this type?
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Original steel rim. Have it as speare wheel. Looks intresting and its heavy too
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its maybe only plus 1cm lift to front but i can see it , it looks better now and drives same. tested at about 100km/h drives fine.
and interesting thing as rear still looks in about same height as front , maybe those self levels doing its job there. duno but car with hi lift jack , couple bags with tools and ropes , shackles and LPG tank in rear keeps its heights ok still. well with 2-3 adults in rear it sacks a bit sure but not that much.
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got bad sound and vibrations from rear bought used stuff and changed , but axle wasnt fiting damn i spend about hour until i figured out that it doesnt give me angle i need with my lift... how do i separate those axles that have worse angle from diff then i need ?
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Are they OEM? perhaps that's the problem..?
 
yes they should be OEM all green . but one that man gave me said GC 01 so mean impreza GC and this one just didint get on same angle as mine. mine was bought from scrapyard as well but its from different model as i understand. so there are subaru exles that goes on better angles and others dont ...
can they be different lenght from different subarus ? like one i got now if its little longer so it locks and cant go on angle.
so i guess its is lenght thats is different. so for my lifted outback GK rear axle still fits but GC not anymore as now im driving with GK rear axle and it goes down enough , but GC axle locking as it pushed too much inside so becoming too long.
so i guess thats why for longer travel then stock you need custom links that are longer then , or at least one custom link maybe top one for my case not sure.
 
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