Outback '01 2.5 4eat VDC project

So couple years ago i bought myself my first subaru ever and after long time thinking took outback against forester. Didint had budget for newer one so went for some 2nd gen that i found

Top original, lower 2"" lift with BFG TA KO2 215/65 R16
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It was 2001 subaru outback 2.5 4eat eith rear LSD and early VDC package. All weather with heated seats, windows, climate control.
It has rear self leveling shocks still ok condition so i left them just put 2" spacer on top. Not sure is it made car harder and less comfy but it can take load very well. But its not soft car to drive fast on bad roads
Then i cut front bumper and put steel skid plate just for engine. Diy it myself from steel sheet from scrapyard
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Yh i saw those in us and uk ebays. Still im not sure i wanna pay that much for something that can be done more simplier. And still i would need to pay for posting those and that i wont do as well. For now at least untill i could find them localy or will send them from china.
I mean i looked whats inside them and i saw people doing tests with those cheap ebay ones and they work just fine. As in most cases you paying for name.
There is very cheap version to deflare tires, its this thing
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Again some cost ecen 50 euros but cheap are for 10 and less , and yes its not made for our car air compressors but how east it is just plug it in press button on side and release air and seeing psi all times. And when you need inflate tires just connect it to your compressor.
But maybe i will try couple diy methods here and see , as yoy know i like all that can be done diy and spend minimum on it.
 
I’m not one to enjoy paying big money on things I don’t need but the deflators I got are very well made, not like the cheap ones on eBay which do a similar job but from my research won’t continue to deflate to the same psi over and over.
I bought a cheap handheld deflator with a gauge exactly like the one you have in the pic but once I deflated all tires to a certain psi (18psi) and then checked my tire pressure with a multiple expensive tire pressure gauges...it was not accurate at all, some tires where a little higher in psi than what the cheap Ebay deflator gauge told me it was at and some where a lot less, and that was enough reason for me to choose a trusted deflator.
Most times you have a lot of trust in your deflators being that your in the middle of nowhere and require your tires to be at a certain psi to progress or to prevent tire damage(amongst other possible damage) as tires cost a lot more than a good deflator like mine.
I know they sell them here as they are Australian made.
I could keep an eye out to see if they come on sale at my local auto shop (plus I get a members discount)
And I could send them to you if you like if that would save you some euros.
Otherwise just make sure your cheap deflator is calibrated properly.

Cheers

1WD


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
yh i cant argue for accurate manometers. but if you using just one , no matter that is shows like little more or less if you will use that one you will have same psi on all tires still. so i duno does mine on compressor is accurate but i cant o nothing with it rly. i tried inflate tires on different petrol stations and some had analog pistols like that on pic and others was digital and automatic and they all shown to me slightly diff psi. so i cant do nothing about it rly.
you very kind rly but if you will send them to me it would cost same for postage and i mean like rly a lot . its no point doing that.
im not getting cheap deflators for now as i dont like wait for something i like to have it like right now or not have at all. thats me haha.
i have original audi VW skoda mini car compressor that comes with all cars there, and its have deflator valve in back on manometer
mine is similar to that
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so i think i can cut tube from that with that manometer and deflating valve and connect to mine via fast connection plugs. so when i just want test psi in tires i dont need to take all compressor out i just take that part out and test tire psi and if needed deflate it and when needed later to inflate connect it to main compressor and inflate tires.
or just connect that air pistol thing for some 7 euros i found here localy . or do both and see which one would be better more comfortable to use and faster to deflate.
i looked video about those automatic deflators some can be fast and some can be very slow too so it depends. and those that you showed are good but those caps can unscrew or screw more they can become kinda loose .

so in end i though of 2 ideas that would be pretty cheap and work well as deflators and when needed connected to compressor to inflate tires.
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beware of my unreal editing skills. looks like real thing no ??? xD
 
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I also have the good ones from screw-on tyre deflators from eBay like the Staun one. They drop down to the set pressures and I don't have to worry about deflating the tyres one-by-one using the bleeder on my Accu-gauge. I bought two sets to hold 2 tyre pressures, one for corrugations, which I can adjust using my gauge, and one for sand. Just make sure that before using such, it is very well-lubricated before setting the pressure. Cheers.
 
nice to hear that thanks.
 
Kevin said:
I have used Staun deflators for many years.
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and how they perform? people say its hard to change psi limit on them later , i dont get it why hard , do you know ? and how those caps holding they dont unscrew themselfs overtime ?
and staun type are just one of types that are out there

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Kevin said:
I have used Staun deflators for many years.
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I’m guessing that they’ve worked well for you Kevin otherwise I’m sure you would have replaced them.
From what I’ve seen and read
I wouldn’t choose any other deflators,
And it comes in a kangaroo leather pouch lol

Cheers

1WD


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
^ yes indeed I would have changed if they were no good.
[MENTION=15721]scalman[/MENTION]

Once you set the pressure there is a locking ring under the cap (you do not leave the deflators on the valve all the time).

Setting the required pressure is a little time consuming; see here for the instructions:
https://www.stauntyredeflators.com.au/how_to_deflate.php

I also have the ARB device with the gauge in your picture; while it is good it is more time consuming to deflate and I use it if I want to set a pressure other than standard of the Stauns. I set 2 Stauns at 18 psi and 2 at 25 psi
 
and where you using 18 psi and 25 psi ? i presume more psi on street ? use 30-31 psi on street
 
I just use the deflator bit on my handheld gauge. About 15 seconds a tyre gets me down to around 25psi. another 5 or thereabouts to get to 20.

Works for me. :shrug:
 
Sure they work. Just mine doesnt have and why they not put one on compressor manometer? Audi vw have one on their car compressor. Thats what im trying to put there now so it would be practical and simple with not much extra spendings.
 
Just check the black handle on the end of the hose where you attach to the tyre; on mine you can push it forward to deflate and lock it in deflate mode by pushing forward then twisting it.
 
well gauge that i have dont have deflating button or valve or anything it just have that plastic pin outside to deflate some air, as in this pic top, compressor dont have that either, but i have compressor from audi vw, which have very nice working valve in rear of gauge as seen in pic. so im thinking to connect that part of hose to my compressor so i could use that deflating valve then.
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so im thinking to cut hose from my compressor then cut from audi compressor and use quick connector as this to connect them as i will need.
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and when i wont need it just use that end hose with gauge to just check tire presure or deflate tires.
and this quick connector has valve inside so it wouldnt let my air out when i would just check air presure on tires without compressor. well thats my idea at least. i can make very short hose with gauge on it and again short hose from gauge with quick connector on end. i could just keep that part under seet or somewhere inside car close to reach. it would be for checking air and deflating.
 
scalman said:
and where you using 18 psi and 25 psi ? i presume more psi on street ? use 30-31 psi on street
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Kevin said:
18 on sand and 25 on bush tracks
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Yes, 18 psi for sand and 29 psi generally for corrugations as they are plenty here and I use the pressure setting all the time. I chose 29 psi because I can easily deflate those to 25 psi for bush tracks and more technical terrain using the bleeder valve of my tyre gauge. I have 36 psi for street pressure, by the way. Cheers.
 
Wow I think I’m running quite low for harder bush settings than I should ?(based on everyone else)
I air down to 18psi in the bush/mud..... I’ll try 22-25psi next time I go out haven’t popped a bead yet on 18 in rough bush terrain tho
Lol
I haven’t had the pleasure of driving on sand yet [emoji3064]
32-35 highway and street for me
Lol

1WD


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I would use 18 for main bush sand or mud snow maybe too. I never did it yet allways went with full psi from city but many ppl just use 18 no prob. Lower the better buts depends what your tire and rim can go. And mud tires hardest i saw forester with muds and just 18 psi he drove on street too and looked almost normal psi for me. Mine at rly shows when i tried to 18 and its good. I saw in one video how man explained and i liked that theory that lower your psi depends how your tire looks on your car just by looking at it. After time if you remember how your tires looks on some psi you could lowee psi by eye .
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I wonder how low could i go on my rim without risk to tire poping off. Some tires on some special rims can even do 0 psi for extreme traction. Nothing can beat that.
 
No lower than 10-12 psi and only in an emergency! Very easy to roll the tyre off the rim at that pressure. Any lower would require bead lockers.
 
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