Locker

From that russian guy video when he tested locker at first when front was just hitting too steep angle and doing nothing and just rear wheels wanted to move car and he was burning clutch he said and car was stalling. Means front wheels where doing nothing at all just rear locker and that can be not good in some situations. We need that front try to spin and grip too, it could be even more troubles on snow hill if only rear locker will push car then it will slide to one side . Vdc will try grip front and rear all times well as much as it can at least, same could be on wet mud hill again locked rear can make car hard to control is it?
But we need more test of those situations. People mostly showing situations where locker works and they not too hard ones.
I would put on mine to test it and see but im still not sure how locker will work lets say on high speeds maneuvers or similar. Is it safe all times or it can make car unpredictable.
 
@ABFoz Your observation is appreciated. It helps solidifying what i have been looking for why no power to wheel, and especially when car is at an angle + obstacles. You are right if i kept on revving that engine+tranny, it will heat up and lead to more damage of CVT.

I did not try the manual 1st gear until after we done with that hill, but I was not in situation which requires me to go thru a checklist to clear obstacles (on real trail). I believe with manual padding at 1st or 2nd gear and a bit faster in approach would help me clear it. If you watch the Honda and Mitsubishi, they both spinned lots of wheel and rev up much higher than what i did. :)

@scalman yes, we need to test a bit more and understand in certain scenario why VDC or newer ATV/TCM+ECU not lock up 50/50

As i tested more and since having rear locker, I have found out the VDC on my SJ does not make right calculation most of the time. It is especially frustrating on steep angle with cement/rock. It seems to favor rear bias (as i monitoring with my car scanner tool and Transfer Duty ratio sensor) while it should have been at 50/50 lock up front and rear. It is the reason why i start searching for ability to lock center diff on my SJ aka found the DCCDPro Spider CVT.

However, I've been testing (road test only) that at 1st and 2nd gear via paddle shifter, it seems to keep the lock up at max 55(rear) on my SJ. I'm looking for my next chance to go back out to a playground and test this out. btw, the paddle shifter does keep the gear at what you set (1st or 2nd) and keep on revving it up. I tested and rev up to 3500-4000rpm (2000-4800 is best torque for SJ FXT) and the Transfer Duty sensor shows max at 55.

I love to hear more about the older subie experience and tips as @ABFoz offerred. I believe Subaru collect those experiences and implement in the new computer algorithm and improve on it.

@ABFoz Your idea on the SK is an interesting one. I have seen it react much faster and handle ditch/rutted better than my SJ or older Xmode (aka version 1). Definitely, they have improved on the parts for the tranny to withstand more torque and heat.

RANDOM: I love Japanese car maker approach to Continuous Improvement. It sucks that we become product tester, but they are consistent improve until they achieve their goals. There is a good book on how Toyota did it. I believe that is how Subaru sticks to their gun on this and finally decide all CVT. (still sucks, lol, but tech will advance and overcome the weaknesses).
 
Yes i thought 1st fixed gear should lock center at least it was i think on older 4eat. In my tests now on this 5eat sportshift i didint found problems fo it being rear bias its seems digs both front and rear same time, maybe locker messes up with VDC though.
 
@scalman I surely hope it is not. :) but i could very well be due to computer always thought more traction to rear thus favor it over more balance 50/50. I really wish there have been someone try out the DCCDPro for CVT on older pre 2013 version with cvt.
 
scalman said:
Yes i thought 1st fixed gear should lock center at least it was i think on older 4eat. In my tests now on this 5eat sportshift i didint found problems fo it being rear bias its seems digs both front and rear same time, maybe locker messes up with VDC though.
Click to expand...

Almost certainly does. The computers cannot compensate for something that is not there as far as the computer is concerned. Therefore will 'think' that something is wrong with the bits it does know about.
 
Yes. I was thinking about this, as well. The wheel speed sensors feed info to the traction control system and when it detects wheels that run at exactly the same speed, it might go into fail-safe or whatever.

Regarding crawling, when a CVT transmission is locked at 1 or 2, it won't slide the input and output shafts forwards or backwards, looking for the most efficient gear ratio. It will lock the ratio, as listed in the specs sheet, for those speeds/gears. Perhaps that might help? Not sure.

Regarding torque transfer, some 4EATs, depending on the market, give more or less even torque to front and rear wheels when at 1 or 2. USDM ones don't, my JDM SportShift does, NZDM ones don't. I am not sure about how other DMs do, haha. Sand is a good test for this. With newer MPT Subarus and at 1 or 2, the wheels usually demonstrate the front wheels moving faster than the rear. My JDM MPT 4EAT always moves both wheels at the same speed at those gears, helping me hop over sand dunes happily. Cheers.
 
another torq locker

russians locker oneclick vs LSD . all fun from about 3:35. silver one is oneclick, black on LSD

another their test starts from 3:50 up hill
in this video from 6:30 owner with oneclick says that at high speed 100-150km/h with changing lanes or even small corners locker doesnt lock it goes without locking , then he saying when driving into yard without adding throttle very slow and hard turn wheel sometimes it locks, driving from parking spot in reverse turning wheel it lock as well. He said then didint test it yet on snow or mud on higher speed so on those surfaces not sure how it will lock / unlock. in the end he added that he thinks its best this locker use with TZ gearbox and not TY gearbox
 
Last edited:
Do you know if the "one click" and the "torq locker" work the exact same way ? Because it seems that the "one click" doesn't lock right away and lets the wheel spin a little before locking. If so, it should be a little better on slippery surfaces.
 
jf1sf5 said:
Do you know if the "one click" and the "torq locker" work the exact same way ? Because it seems that the "one click" doesn't lock right away and lets the wheel spin a little before locking. If so, it should be a little better on slippery surfaces.
Click to expand...
they have 2 options lockright and oneclick, lockright its kinda same as torq locker it locks on every teeth and oneclick locks just one one teeth and its not have that click sound on corner as i understand. at least they say that on their video about oneclick.

Video | VK

VK is the largest European social network with more than 100 million active users. Our goal is to keep old friends, ex-classmates, neighbors and colleagues in touch.
vk.com vk.com
in the end of video they show lockright and oneclick how they locks. so seems like one click is more better for city driving cornering as it should not click all time.
update: checked again on their forum and people saying oneclick locker dont have clicking sound on corners at all. so thats true. just click sound when it locks and click sound when it unlocks.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for the links and the translation, Scalman. I think that the "one click" is better for a daily driver that goes offroad from time to time and the "lockright" for better offroad performance as it locks instantly.
 
Well when oneclick locked its same as lockright its 100% , and it locks pretty quick too i duno yet what downside of that is, maybe that it not locks like in second but can be needed some wheel spin to lock. Still it seems work fine and locked there allways quick, they tried to torture it to no lock or unlock but it allways worked.
And they cost like half price of torq locker at least localy. Oneclick is like 235 euros and lockright is 215 about that. They say that sometimes when they dont have those made they might need at least 3 people to order those for them to start make them.
 
For 235€, I could be interested.....would you be able to buy them in Russia ?
 
well we can import them some way, would be much easier but our countries now not in the best terms so not like i drive there and buy them or they can be send, if they send them it would cost a lot more, but there are ways to buy them i guess. some forester club guys bought couple of them allready and testing.
 

forester on long travel suspension custom made , pretty cheap and rear locker

maybe you dont need locker so much in wet mud as if all wheels on ground it will spin anyway isnt it ? and if you just went to deep locker wont help there too maybe make it worse even as you can dig down faster
 
Last edited:
The locker may help in mud. It’ll be circumstantial depending on a number of factors. Three wheels spinning is generally better than two.

That said ppl will complain that they got stuck even with the locker. They’re missing the point - they’ll get stuck further into a track where they would’ve stopped a long time ago with an open read diff.

If not careful, the locker WILL get you stuck in worse places than you ever did before - because you can get further into trouble with the extra traction...

So be warned!

Can’t wait to install mine! I really need to fix the front castlated nut issue that I’ve investigated but not resolved yet.

Cheers

Bennie
 
El_Freddo said:
The locker may help in mud.

. . .

If not careful, the locker WILL get you stuck in worse places than you ever did before - because you can get further into trouble with the extra traction...

So be warned!
Click to expand...

Bennie, I couldn't agree more. I have the ignominious honour of having bogged a tractor with a locked diff in black soil country (Dawson Valley, Queensland). Boy, was I popular ... :poke: :nod:
 
Ratbag said:
I have the ignominious honour of having bogged a tractor with a locked diff in black soil country
Click to expand...
Not me, but the guys I was working for at the time got one of these bogged
maxresdefault.jpg


We had to wait for the ground to dry to get it out (and it just drove out). also bogged a bloody big grader trying to get it out.
They also had a little daihatsu 4x4 which floated over the top of the mud straight past them (screaming like a banshee while doing it).

Back before mobile phones, so no pictures.
 
I still prefer more tractive wheels even on very loose surfaces. I think in that video, that Subaru with the rear locked diff got stuck just because of his technique - he used more kinetic friction than static and on loose surfaces, basically on most off-roading scenarios, we need the most static friction. When he slowed down, he floored it immediately thereby increasing kinetic instead of static friction. In this case, the 3 tractive wheels sped up the digging and/or being stuck. Also, the belly of the vehicle also kissed the ground and when that happens, mud has the tendency to behave like a vacuum.

Imagine if you have a rear locker, giving 3 wheels with traction, and then you maximise static friction, you would glide on the most sticky situations...provided you have the right line and all the other factors. Cheers.
 
Last edited:
how torq locker sound
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top