"Hd" axles?

[4eat05]

Hey everybody, i am wondering if any of you have any experience with any of the "hd" axles offered by Heri, Surtrack, Trackmotive and i assume some others.

After reading about cv troubles after lifting, i started looking into better axles. I read a few threads saying the Heri hd's seem like a dream come true, but havent really seen any reviews of anyone thats actually used them.

If you have any experience with any of these "hd" axles, please post it here.

 

[jf1sf5]

I had a set of Heri HD front axles that lasted more than 2 years, but I wouldn't recommend them, they got a lot of play and I always thought they were going to break.
Now I have Subaru SVX front axles, they are a little larger than the common Subaru axles but most important, they get more than 30° angle versus 25° for the normal axles. They are not a bolt on thing, you have to machine the outer CV's to make them fit the Forester hubs. Be aware that the SVX axles have female inner CV's, I don't know what axles you have on your Forester (male or female) but if you have male CV's, you will have to install early 4eat studs for the SVX axles to fit.

https://offroadsubarus.com/threads/high-angle-inner-cvs.7143/

Another option is to swap the "clover" shape inner CV's for round inner CV's and do a bit of machining to gain some angle

03 outback rear suspension on EA81 - T-bone 2.0

www.ultimatesubaru.org

 

[NachaLuva]

Heri are rubbish, I would stay away from them. Most people's experience with them is very short lived!
Cardone HD are the one that most people wanting aftermarket axles recommend, but the same goes for them. Some are lucky & they last a few years, more than not only last a few months if that. Quality is very hit & miss

Axles for a lifted Subaru is very simple...only use genuine!

Most of the problems people have with CVs are usually from using cheap aftermarket axles or worn/soft transmission mounts, or from decade old CV boots (the rubber goes hard & brittle with age)
2” lift front is fine as long as you follow these points:

1. Use only genuine Subaru axles & genuine Subaru CV boots with quality CV grease (aftermarket axles & boots just don’t last on lifted Subarus)

2. Make sure the transmission mounts are in good condition. Worn/soft mounts or loose trans mount bolts are the main cause of CV issues

3. If needed, fit a HD trans mount insert. This has helped several people who had been having issues with CVs or who have that low speed wobble/vibration under acceleration

4. Check the front lower control arm (LCA) front bush on newer models. Recently, this has been shown to cause a steering wobble at about 80-100kph. Replace with a urethane bush if needed

The trans mount insert fits inside the OEM transmission mount to stiffen it up. When you accelerate hard esp in 1st, the large amount of torque tries to twist the transmission. With soft or worn trans mounts, this lifts one side & pushes it further away to the other side, so you get more CV angle plus it stretches the CV. It's a double whammy! This causes the dreaded vibration/wobble. The trans mount insert fits inside the OEM transmission mount to stiffen it up so this doesn't happen.

I also have a suspicion that Subaru is using a softer rubber in later models. This reduces NVH (noise vibration harshness) for good reviews, but means more trans movement

www.ebay.com.au/usr/cke_ssp?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

www.rallitek.com/bushings/3018-rallitek-4eat-transmission-mount-insert-bushing.html

www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KDT956

 

[Ratbag]

Check the diameters of various OEM drive shafts. They vary by about 2mm or more, IIRC, leaving aside the material they are made from (my memory is not a given, these days ... the painkillers play merry hell with my memory, on top of everything else). Finding WRX or XT Forester shafts that fit will serve you well.

 

[duncanm]

2. Make sure the transmission mounts are in good condition. Worn/soft mounts or loose trans mount bolts are the main cause of CV issues

3. If needed, fit a HD trans mount insert. This has helped several people who had been having issues with CVs or who have that low speed wobble/vibration under acceleration

...

The trans mount insert fits inside the OEM transmission mount to stiffen it up. When you accelerate hard esp in 1st, the large amount of torque tries to twist the transmission. With soft or worn trans mounts, this lifts one side & pushes it further away to the other side, so you get more CV angle plus it stretches the CV. It's a double whammy! This causes the dreaded vibration/wobble. The trans mount insert fits inside the OEM transmission mount to stiffen it up so this doesn't happen.

I also have a suspicion that Subaru is using a softer rubber in later models. This reduces NVH (noise vibration harshness) for good reviews, but means more trans movement

just a quick note on trans mounts.

For all you who like to save a buck (and who doesn't?), fill the mount voids with polyurethane. I used car windscreen adhesive. Sika 255 (Shore A 55), which is pretty soft, but it made a big difference to the overall stiffness. Probably gives you half way between standard and group-N mount, and much cheaper than a $70 whiteline insert

Standard and groun-N mounts:


Poly filled standard mount:

 

[4eat05]

Damn thanks guys

I am currently having no issues with my oem cv axles, thankfully, as i am not lifted yet.
Just hoping those hd axles would be an improvement.

I am currently a little worried about destroying my cv's or having to constantly reboot them if i go with a 2" lift, which is kind of making me lean towards a 1.5" lift.

I think i will get the 4eat mount insert too. I have one in my 4eat wrx, but not my 4eat foz.

Will that really keep my cv's and boots happier with a 2" lift?

If you cant tell, id love 2" (or more) of lift, but also really worried about cv's and boots

 

[jf1sf5]

If you stay with OEM parts, you will have no issues even with a 2" lift, its the Subarus most common lift.

 

[4eat05]

Ive always heard the front boots start ripping/tearing at a much faster rate with a 2" lift, though the joints themself are fine at 2". Might just have to go with 2" and hope motor/trans/diff mounts/bushings help out

 

[Red XS]

Cheap boots won't last with a 2" lift. OEM boots and quality silicon boots will last. I've got a bit more then 2" lift in mine and long travel suspension. Both my old front boots died quickly so I put one OEM one in and one "Stretch" branded boot in. It's only been just under 50,000Km, so will take more time to see which lasts longer. I've since put the stretch boots in the rear too.