Locker

cr445671 said:
How would something like this do going uphill on curvy paved mountain roads?
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From the very small bit of testing I've done so far, I think it wouldn't be noticeable at all on winding roads, only on very slow sharp corners like turning into a side street or a roundabout
 
Weird, I wouldn't have expected tire squealing in that situation but not in one needing more power.
 
I don’t think the tyres will “squeal” per say, more the ratcheting noise of the locker, if you cornered on full power it might be different tho the locker would be completely locked up and that could lead to some white knuckle experiences lol

Cheers

1WD


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"if you cornered on full power it might be different tho as there’s a good chance the locker would be completely locked up"

My understanding of how these worked was that they were either completely locked or open to ratchet, is there some way for them to only partially lock up?
 
cr445671 said:
My understanding of how these worked was that they were either completely locked or open to ratchet, is there some way for them to only partially lock up?
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Not that I know of mate

Cheers

1WD




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Found the answer, last comment under the exchange between powerofyourbrains and Subaru Off-Road in the comments section of powerofyourbrains's most recent video. Apparently maybe more accurate to describe this locker as "all power to slowest wheel" since (as in going around a corner) if one wheel spins faster than the other that increase in speed prevents the camming action of the center pin on that half of the locker.



"Yes the two are a very similar concept but the Torque locker is slightly superior design as it is mate to ratchet easier. Where you have made a mistake if your understanding is that you said the acceleration applied pushes out on both side equally. This is only true in a straight line. When cornering and one wheel is turning more slowly than the other the cam on the pin will only push outwards on the that wheel. The outside (faster wheel) will try turn faster than the pin doing the pushing and as such the cam will not act on this side. On this side the springs keep the little (4mm) drive teeth engaged between that half of the centre section and the side "gear" section but only with a little bit of force (not enough to provide drive), that makes these two pieces rotate together at the same rate with the wheel on that side. As this outside wheel is rotating faster than the carrier/pin it rotates the cam on centre piece away from the main drive pin so that the cam no longer acts at all. This rotation continues until the flat castle looking parts of the two centre sections contact this stops the faster turning centre piece from rotating further forwards stopping the other side of the main pin cam acting in the opposite direction. As the outside wheel is still trying to rotate faster the slight angle on the little 4mm teeth is enough to overpower the little springs and allow the drive "gear" section to jump one tooth forward. The only reason it may seem like its "locking" under acceleration is simply because you have overcome the traction of the inside wheel and thus both wheels now rotate at carier speed. With this locker its not possible for a wheel to ever rotate slower than the carrier. " -Subaru Off-Road

[ame="https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JcbAZOak974"]Subaru R160 Autolocker Explained + Ratcheting Sound Tests - YouTube[/ame]
 
Those guys who have that locker commented that they tested it on 2011 wrx impreza and it kinda had no prob with vdc but they not sure how it would act on high speeds lik3 changing lanes etc manuvering stuff. It might get messy if vdc wouldnt understand it so for newer systems it needs to b3 tested more.
 
cr445671 said:
Where you have made a mistake if your understanding is that you said the acceleration applied pushes out on both side equally. This is only true in a straight line. When cornering and one wheel is turning more slowly than the other the cam on the pin will only push outwards on the that wheel.
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I’m not sure if your directing that comment to me mate but if you are then what I’m saying is with the Torq Locker it may still lock both rear wheels while turning, under hard acceleration specially depending on the amount of traction both rear wheels have at the time of cornering, this needs to be tested on wet roads and soft/loose gravel/snow and mud to determine if both rear wheels would act this way if treated aggressively around a corner, as it could be a white knuckle experience that most wouldn’t be ready for unless they are told about it before hand. That’s why most people who are testing the locker say to coast around corners or bends and not to get hard on the throttle. I’m no expert by all means, but that’s my interpretation of all the information I’ve read and seen regarding how this locker could behave.

Cheers

1WD


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
how lock right works . its looks like it has no problems on corners there but then say on off road lock right will work better then one-click because it will lock like in moment wheres one-click can get some time to lock ...
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wi7WGlXbWLI&t=10s"]??????? ?????? ?????????? "???????" - YouTube[/ame]
it looks very similar design to torQ locker is it not ?
as they said lockright has 20 teeths so its 20 ways to lock it and one-click clicks just one time somehow... not sure how it does that but it not locks right away so one-click must be like better on road and such
and someone comented that in duster lockright locker he took it off before selling car and it did 35k km on it and it looked still great no usage or broken teeths or anything visualy on it .
 
1WD Foz said:
I’m not sure if your directing that comment to me mate but if you are then what I’m saying is with the Torq Locker it may still lock both rear wheels while turning, under hard acceleration specially depending on the amount of traction both rear wheels have at the time of cornering, this needs to be tested on wet roads and soft/loose gravel/snow and mud to determine if both rear wheels would act this way if treated aggressively around a corner, as it could be a white knuckle experience that most wouldn’t be ready for unless they are told about it before hand. That’s why most people who are testing the locker say to coast around corners or bends and not to get hard on the throttle. I’m no expert by all means, but that’s my interpretation of all the information I’ve read and seen regarding how this locker could behave.

Cheers

1WD


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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That sounds about rite. Uphill especially is my concern, theres not any option to coast around a switchback on alot of mountain roads. If that rear inner wheel broke lose i would think the added force when the locker finally catches up with the outer wheel may brake it too. I would also worry that sudden loss of traction in the rear may break whichever front wheel is getting power free. Three wheels spinning plus a back end presumably fishtailing would make for some white knuckles indeed.
 
NachaLuva said:
From the very small bit of testing I've done so far, I think it wouldn't be noticeable at all on winding roads, only on very slow sharp corners like turning into a side street or a roundabout
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I just realized it's winter for y'all down there, do you have any plans to head to the mountains? Of course I'm not sure what your snow cover is like rite now though. Do you get it consistantly each year?
 
For those of us with VLSD already in the rear (e.g SG forester), what do we need to replace in order to fit the locker?
I'm hoping just the carrier and the ring gear swaps over..?
What models would we look for for the parts, Imprezza? Outback? doesn't really matter as long as it's an open R160 diff with the same bolt pattern?
 
More testing in the rain, incl donuts & figure of 8s in the Bunnings car park haha. Video to come.

The locker really isn't noticeable at all for 99% of situations onroad. It's really only in slow, sharp corners that there's a bit of clicking, but fine. The only issue is in tight car parks, the clicking is louder & you can feel it too. Still not bad but will put some people off
 
So it clicks in car parks because its allways locked just unlocks and clicks when you doing those manuevers is it?
 
Ben Up North said:
For those of us with VLSD already in the rear (e.g SG forester), what do we need to replace in order to fit the locker?
I'm hoping just the carrier and the ring gear swaps over..?
What models would we look for for the parts, Imprezza? Outback? doesn't really matter as long as it's an open R160 diff with the same bolt pattern?
Click to expand...

As i understand it it's best to swap the whole carrier, there's shims and that sort of stuff in there and you need to do alot of reworking if you move internals around (the 5bolt side covers are side specific for example). I don't know if 5 v 1 bolt matters when swapping the whole diff but i would certainly go for the same one I've already got. There's a youtube of a guy swapping one in, go to softroadingthewest channel and look for the recent video wich mentions the locker, there's a link in that video description to the channel with alot of explanations and stuff.



NachaLuva said:
More testing in the rain, incl donuts & figure of 8s in the Bunnings car park haha. Video to come.

The locker really isn't noticeable at all for 99% of situations onroad. It's really only in slow, sharp corners that there's a bit of clicking, but fine. The only issue is in tight car parks, the clicking is louder & you can feel it too. Still not bad but will put some people off
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What's your youtube channel's name?
 
Testing proper locker operation during installation:

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1_liHQpFOk"]Auto locker operation test for Subaru Forester - YouTube[/ame]

First onroad handling test in a wet carpark immediately after a lot of rain. Turns are full lock in both directions

The locker really isn't noticeable at all for 99% of situations onroad. It's really only in slow, sharp corners that there's a bit of clicking, but it's fine.

During the video, you can see the front wheels turning & hear the clicking. At times, the clicking is louder, that's when I'm flooring it, trying to get the rear to kick out, which I couldn't do even on muddies on a wet surface

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1CiePt01cE"]Subaru auto locker onroad handling test 01 - YouTube[/ame]
 
NachaLuva said:
At times, the clicking is louder, that's when I'm flooring it, trying to get the rear to kick out, which I couldn't do even on muddies on a wet surface
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Dude that is soooo encouraging. I'm not worried about the clicking even a little bit, honestly not even the possibility of fishtailing so much, I just don't know how to read it in these cars. I used to have a volvo wagon that was rear wheel drive and an intersection leaving my highschool that was downward sloping like as soon as you crossed the line to go out in it. If it had just been raining that thing could, as i found out a few times, end up doing 360's in the middle of the road. after the first time though it wasn't a difficult thing to manage and could actually be pretty fun to play with. Only thing that I wonder about with these is uphill, losing traction and not getting it back before an edge of the road, and having that front wheel that's getting power added into the situation. I figure it could either really help or really hurt. Knowing you couldn't get a kick out while flooring it is pretty awesome.
 
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Thanks for the video NachaLuva.

What I see is that you have a bit of understeering, just before the diff starts clicking. Do you confirm that ? Your M/T's are probably responsible of the understeering too. It will be interresting to test it on a winding road at normal speeds under bad weather conditions (rain....maybe snow !)
 
scalman said:
So it clicks in car parks because its allways locked just unlocks and clicks when you doing those manuevers is it?
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Correct. They should be called auto unlockers.

I’ll check out the videos later, family calls!

Cheers

Bennie
 
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