The Grey Fox.

G'day all, I thOught I'd start a build thread just to just to prevent my progress posts from stinking up the forum.

For those that dont know I picked up a 2Oo7 xs forester in Sydney and have driven it back to Perth, picking up and fitting eBay gold along the way.

I've arrived home to my building site of a home (floor sanding and painting) and can't even see, let alone repair my PC so you will have to wait for pictures.

So far in the 2 weeks since we met I've added a bullbar, sump guard, diff guard, UHF, GPS, engle, rooftop tent, awning and strutbrace.

Next on the list are headers, 1" blocks, rear sway bar/links/disconnects, driving lights, ATs, hitch, real low range, stereo gear and extra 12V sockets.

I'd also like to install the factory climate control or rig up a throttle position A/C cutout and remove the hill hold as advised.

Pics and reviews of the gear to come.

Cheers,

Seanan.
 
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The 6speed with the DCCD is the best of all!!
I can't imagine what would i do without it!
I am very pleased with that and i know now that i can make things that 2 years ago i wouldn't dream of it!!
 
I sat one on a piece for 2 hours and there is a tiny bit of distortion visible. I could still touch the Perspex without burning my fingers. I don't think they will get too hot while the car is moving.
 
Gidday ST

What was involved in fitting your SubaXtreme front bar?

Any cutting involved?

Special attachment kit needed?

Any miscellaneous thoughts?
 
Hi RB,

The only cutting needed is to the existing bumper to use the piece that the grill attaches to.
I'm sure you could make a piece out of plastic to avoid destroying the bumper though.
 
The subaX bar should be mounted with a 15mm+ gap to the lights and fenders to avoid it fouling them with the deflection in any impact.

The bar work obscures the indicators a little from some angles, i have added indicators in the fog light holes. I recommend converting the existing fog lights to indicators as they are not of much use as fog lights imo.
 
Gidday ST

stilson said:
Hi RB,

The only cutting needed is to the existing bumper to use the piece that the grill attaches to.
I'm sure you could make a piece out of plastic to avoid destroying the bumper though.
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Thanks for that. I have some bits of plastic from my modifications to our microwave surround so that the new microwave fitted. The fitting kit cost about half the price of the new microwave, so I re-used the existing one. Worked a treat, and cost me nothing ... :poke: :biggrin:.

stilson said:
The subaX bar should be mounted with a 15mm+ gap to the lights and fenders to avoid it fouling them with the deflection in any impact.
Click to expand...

I get your point about clearance, but does it really need to be that much?

In the unlikely even that I hit a 'roo, or someone else, maybe it's my insurer's problem ... Haven't come close to doing either for about 40 years now ... However, I know that it CAN happen to me. Possibly why it is unlikely to ... :iconwink:

The bar work obscures the indicators a little from some angles, i have added indicators in the fog light holes. I recommend converting the existing fog lights to indicators as they are not of much use as fog lights imo.
Click to expand...

Maybe just cut some holes in the bar and fit some aftermarket LED indicators/running lights? Although mine has the wing mirror indicators like yours, so really shouldn't be a visibility problem (Our SH doesn't have the wing mirror indicators - bloody cheapskates!).

Thanks again for the guidance :) :ebiggrin:.
 
I don't know about cutting holes in the bar but I can link you to the place I bought the LED halos from. They could sit on the outside of your fogs neatly.

Off-road I bounced off a sand bank and it pushed the bar up into my fenders and cracked the paint, not something I would bother claiming on insurance but an annoyance that could have been avoided. Gap is actually 8-10mm now.
 
Next on the to-do list is:

Wire indicators and spread halogen beams
Fit and wire LED spotties and round off the nuts to stop thieves
Wire tow connector
Wire a latching relay to stop the cruise control turning off each time
Fit the SF front struts to match my SF springs
Build a custom DCCD 4.44 and 1.447 box and fit the 4.44 rear LSD I have
Clean the treads on my wheel nuts and lugs and fit the new nuts
Wire in some more 12V sockets and fit the gps
Upgrade the rear sway bar with a heavier disconnectable unit and figure out a way to have a quick disconnect for the front as I currently have it not connected
Fit front aftermarket camber bolts
Remove the dents from my headers and reinforce them then heat shield them
Reinforce the bendy bash plate

All in a days (years) work.
 
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Does the bar actually impact on the view of the indicators from any significant angles? That is, in any way that the new bull bar compliance rules would get in a twist about?

I take your point about clearance. The OEM bar is very flexible in that regard. The SubaXtreme bar is/will be very rigid in comparison.

What do you think about some kind of body joint material?
 
Sounds like a foolproof plan.

Here a shot showing how the indicators are obscured RB.



The mirror indicators project all their light to the side so they just don't make up for it.
 
Thanks for taking and posting that, ST.

Have you got any pics of the halo LED indicator lights you have fitted around your froggie lights?
 
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