Broken Hill - Wilpena - Arkaroola - Lake Eyre

DAY 10: Coward Springs

Woke up to rain on the tent so we got up and ate breakfast. When the rain cleared we explored the area for a while before embarking on a short drive to William Creek. It wasn't long before it started raining and the track was getting quite challenging. Unfortunately we got to a soft washed out clay riverbed that we could not get across. Bob (from the yacht club) told us that if the mud is so deep that you can't walk through it then you won't be able to drive through it so Julie got out and put on her gumboots to attempt to test the mud. Within a few metres of her entering she sank in, then her feet just moved away from underneath her and she went for a sixer getting mud all over her. I had to go and help her out. We decided to head back to the campsite to clean up, have lunch and relax. Those mud and clay tracks in the rain are not fun.

Here is a vid of a faster moving water crossing....
We hesitated at first but when we discovered how shallow it was we went for it.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hU2OfAGGCGU"]YouTube - Water crossing - Oodnadatta Track[/ame]

This vid shows the furthest point of our holiday....
It's about 20km south of William Creek where we wussed out at this deep soft mud. I now regret not trying it but hey - them's the breaks.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NFWZdHx33s"]YouTube - The deep mud that stopped us...[/ame]

Julie after slipping over in the muddy section we decided might be too challenging....
1.1284542194.julie-going-4-a-sixer-in-deep-mud.jpg


Irrapatana Siding
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G30y5dQfsig"]YouTube - Irrapatana Siding landscape + old car wreck[/ame]

Nice little creek crossing near Irrapatana
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsZCqUvdBto"]YouTube - Water Crossing near Irrapatana on Oodnadatta Track[/ame]

Rain in the desert
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOMDB36j_6k"]YouTube - Rain in the desert - Oodnadatta Track[/ame]

Desert Swamplands
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwF2_U7_SEk"]YouTube - Desert Swamplands on the 'Oodna'.[/ame]

Strangways old Ghan railway bridge
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g01VO0OSsoU"]YouTube - Strangways Railway Bridge[/ame]

Got back to the camp and it looked like the rain was going to continue so we moved our tent to the other side of the campground which was a bit more protected. Just as we were about to start cooking, four big monstrous 4x4's stacked to the gunwales drove in and erected a mini tent city right beside us - not happy. We didn't come all the way from Sydney to camp like this - so we moved the camp once again. Finally we found a good spot so we spent the last hour of light doing photography around the place.

View from our campsite
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYWx4JkZX2Y"]YouTube - View from out campsite at Coward Springs[/ame]

Once darkness fell we cooked dinner and ate just before the rain started. We washed up and called it a night.

It rained on and off all night - surprisingly enough we managed to stay dry which should've been hard since my head and feet touch the walls of the tent but our tent seems to do a pretty good job of keeping out the elements.

1.1284542194.coward-springs-toilet-blocks.jpg


They say it's hard to find water in the desert - I think I found it!
1.1284542194.i-think-i-have-found-water-in-the-desert.jpg


Second night's campsite at Coward Springs
1.1284542194.our-camp-at-coward-springs.jpg
 
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WOW!!! Such an epic trip report I had to save it for the weekend.:ebiggrin: Looks like y'all have had an amazing adventure (are you even done with the report yet?) thanks for putting the time and effort into making such an enjoyable read.:bananatoast:
 
Really good trip report. Thanks for going to the trouble of posting all of that.

Tweaksta said:
Ahh yes the dreaming....

You could feel it - that's for sure.

Would your screen name happen to be of indigenous origin?
Click to expand...

In answer to your question:

Djulpan = gumatj word which means "seven sisters" (constellation). Also known as Pleiades in the North Hemisphere, and in Japan as "Su-baru". hence the logo on the front of any subie.

Anyway, interesting that you dropped in at Iga Warta. For anyone contemplating a trip to the Flinders, I strongly recommend dropping in there and camping for a couple of days at their campground. Excellent tours of rock paintings etc nearby, and very friendly mob the Coulthards.
 
Totally enjoyable read tweaksta. Loved every minute of it. The pics are fantastic too. Top effort mate and thanks so much for sharing.

I would love to see your trip plotted on a map - the more I read the more inspired I become to do something like this.

How long (days, hours driving per day etc.) was the trip in total?? I might have missed this somewhere in the trip report.

Cheers,
Skender.
 
Good report mate, looked like alot of fun. Your g/f stayed pretty calm throughout! I know some would have been screaming their heads off haha.
 
Actually...she used to scream at anything that resembled a puddle - or if the car was on an uneven surface putting us on an angle. Happy to say she has now got her "offroad legs"!:cool:
 
To be honest - if you guys have the patience, I've still got another day or two needing to post up.

I don't want to bore anyone but if it's interesting to you I'm happy to post.
 
Looks like you had a great time Tweaksta! Like Kevin said, when we were in the Flinders with the club, we missed the big wet. Top videos!

Regards,

Joel
 
Ohhh OK then....

DAY 11: Coward Springs to Parachilna

This morning it was still a bit rainy so we had to pack up during a sunny patch when everything was temporarily dry. It was hard to leave as this marked our furthest point from home....the most remote and 'outback' part of our trip. As a result we walked around and took way too many photos for too long.

Coward Springs Hot Spring
1.1284580173.hot-spring.jpg


Coward Springs Dunny Block
1.1284580173.coward-springs-dunny-block.jpg


Coward Springs Shower Block
1.1284580173.coward-springs-shower-block.jpg


Leaving Coward Springs
1.1284580173.leaving-coward-springs.jpg


Coward Springs Entrance - looking North up the Oodnadatta Track
1.1284580173.coward-springs-sign-looking-north-up-the-oodna.jpg


We left at around midday. It was about 130km on mud and clay again to Marree, lots of slippery clay/mud, washouts and deep ruts. The water crossings were no deeper than on the trip up though. We stopped at a few of the old Ghan Railway Siding ruins. One day I want to get permission from the Gov to restore one and turn it into something cool.

Margaret Creek (near Margaret Siding)
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2k49vlb7Ek"]YouTube - Margaret Creek - Oodnadatta Track[/ame]

Stuart Creek (near Curdimurka)
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNdXwlUz88k"]YouTube - Stuart Creek - near Curdimurka - Oodnadatta Track[/ame]

Curdimurka Siding
1.1284580173.curdimurka-siding.jpg


1.1284580173.curdimurka-information-sign.jpg


1.1284580173.tracks-to-nowhere---curdimurka.jpg


1.1284580173.desert-around-curdimurka.jpg


How to prevent tyre wear
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuwW0Hc6mEU"]YouTube - P9130699[/ame]

Approaching Lake Eyre from the north
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVuiVi_QVGs"]YouTube - Approaching Lake Eyre (on left) coming from the north...[/ame]

Driving into Lake Eyre visitors carpark
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5XqCaD8VIY"]YouTube - Driving into the visitors carpark at Lake Eyre[/ame]

We stopped off at Lake Eyre again for more photos before getting all sentimental about leaving. We had a few sad moments and even considered camping on the shore for another night. We drove down onto a smallish rise which overlooked the eroding Ghan line embankment about 400m from the water. We pondered, weighed up the pros and cons and decided that it was too exposed, too barren, too cloudy with potential for rain and possibly a bit scary at night. We vowed that we would return to camp on the shore in a campervan - whether in our family's old '83 Hiace Poptop in a dry season or a hired 4x4 camper. After a while we tore ourselves away from the lake which was the goal of our entire trip.

We drove away and watched the lake disappear behind us....after a few minutes of sadness, we were starting to think of our trip ahead and the scary water crossing which nearly drowned us on the way in which was coming up 25kms South of Marree.

Nice desert scenery heading south about 45k's from Marree
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8ery12ea7I"]YouTube - Nice desert scenery heading south about 45k's from Marree[/ame]

The Dog Fence
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lTnWJpJkBhg"]YouTube - The Dog Fence[/ame]

Nice boggy bit just north of Marree
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5eZQ5v5wSrU"]YouTube - Nice boggy patch on the 'Oodna' a few kays north of Marree.[/ame]

Cute little water crossing just out of Marree
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKEqTVI7d68"]YouTube - Nice little water crossing approaching Marree.[/ame]

Following the old Ghan railway embankment south into Marree
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z26I8hQz_KA"]YouTube - Following the old Ghan railway embankment south into Marree.[/ame]

We stopped at Marree for fuel, toasted sandwiches and coffee and continued along the road.

It was no go for the Birdsville Track....maybe next time!
1.1284580173.birdsville-track---no-go.jpg


1.1284580173.ridge-the-forester.jpg


Going back (return journey) through the scary part 3 days earlier. Water level much lower.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xhk3ADp6aMo"]YouTube - P9130754[/ame]

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32tnNKJyIQE"]YouTube - P9130755[/ame]

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juqx-nfIiYY"]YouTube - Oodnadatta Track - returning through what was a deep bit 3 days earlier.[/ame]

We had 3 or 4 easy water crossings and then we realised that we had already travelled 50kms from Marree, meaning that the flooded section had been passed already. It must've subsided - well - that was a relief wasn't it?

Farina Siding
1.1284580173.railway-rooons---farina.jpg


1.1284580173.strzelecki-turnoff.jpg


Strzelecki Track - Closed too
1.1284580173.strzelecki-closed-road-sign.jpg


From there it was about 135km on a semi-sealed road - ie: 30km sealed sections. We were getting hungry and looking forward to a delicious dinner at the Prairie Hotel in Parachilna (prairiehotel.com.au‎). When we got there they had a 250 person cycle tour staying there and having a banquet dinner. Luckily they had a room at "The Overflow" out the back of the pub. Well, it was actually a demountable Atco thing with no ensuite....how would we survive? We checked it out and it was actually quite cosy as the rain started again, so we unpacked and went over to the pub for another mouthwatering meal in the restaurant. Julie had her Haloumi again....I had the bush tomato butter chicken with peppermint and coriander yoghurt.
 
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DAY 11 - Coward Springs to Parachilna Continued

When we finished, we went outside and a local country singer - John O'Dea, was doing a gig for the 250 cyclists. Now, normally I don't get into country music - but this guy was good. He did a whole lot of songs about the local Flinders Ranges area as well as some good ol' numbers like 'Home amongst the gumtrees'. We loved it....we love South Australia.....especially the Flinders Ranges and the areas north of the Flinders.

John O'Dea playing outside the Prairie Hotel
1.1284580173.country-singer-john-o-dea-playing-at-the-prair.jpg


Back at our room we made some decisions about our next leg. We decided the next day we would head back to Wilpena Pound to complete the walk into the pound and stay in a bit more luxury. After listening to the singer a bit more and making phone calls we had showers and went to bed to the sounds of country music which was actually quite nice.

Videos and more pics coming soon...
 
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Excellent report, was a very good read. Good to see the water crossing weren't a problem
 
Tweaksta said:
Hey ORS'ers!

Videos now added for Day 10 & Day 11......enjoy!
Click to expand...

Awesome!!! Just watched them all.:cool:

I must point out that you've repeated one of the videos, the 5th and 6th videos in day 11 are the same.

Also, your Forester sounds really nice.:)
 
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Thanks for pointing that out Carl....I've updated that link with the correct video now. I guess that's one more for you to view!!

PS: That nice burbling sound is the result of a hole somewhere in the exhaust, I haven't located the source of the leak yet, but since it sounds so good I'm in no hurry to get it fixed - but if the whole thing needs replacing I'll probably put a 3" exhaust in from the turbo back.
 
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