Broken Hill - Wilpena - Arkaroola - Lake Eyre

DAY 8: Arkaroola to Marree
Had a quick breakfast, and checked out of our room. As planned, we headed down to Arkaroola Gorge - about 5km from the village. It was another rough 4wd track which would have been much easier with low range, but with careful throttle and 1st gear we managed across the rocky riverbeds. As we walked into the gorge we were met with a mindblowingly beautiful waterhole in the middle of the harshest, driest, unforgiving landscape. Several metres deep, and with 4-5 large pools linked by a creek, it was a magical place and we found it hard to leave. Swimming isn't allowed as the mineral-rich waters would get stirred up which would then mean that the local wildlife cannot drink from the thin layer of fresh water on top.

Pulling Faces at Arkaroola Gorge
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Angle Parking?
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This guy was covering 100km on a pushie!
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The Arkaroola Chooper
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Arkaroola Gorge
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Rest Stop (note the mud)
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We loved Arkaroola but had to leave.......onwards and upwards........onwards and upwards.

On our way back to the main road we passed through some Aboriginal Lands which have some nice clean camping grounds at Iga Warta where you can go on tours where they tell you all the stories about the local land.

We turned Northwards at Copley , grabbed some supplies at Leigh Creek and headed up to Lyndhurst to check the Strzelecki Track conditions. The big electronic sign said it was closed but that's cool coz we aren't planning on heading up there until after Lake Eyre in a few days time.

The road from Lyndhurst to Maree had only just been reopened but only to 4WD and Heavy Vehicles with high clearance. We thought we'd be fine in our Subaru.....

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Water crossing after water crossing came.....some deeper than others, then we hit one which was 1 km long. You couldn't see the road out the other side. We were driving in a river - a wave came up to the bonnet and I thought the engine would conk out. One of the drive belts started to squeal and we had a slightly adrenalised moment. We made it out the other side without any mishaps!

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ug2gfs6PQ5A&feature=player_embedded"]YouTube - Flooded Oodnadatta Track - Water Crossing in a Subaru Forester[/ame]

Marree was basic....but the atmosphere was great. We went straight to the pub and got a room. The place was packed with several 4x4 tour buses and a heap of offroad adventurers of all walks of life. It was like a party with everyone exchanging their outback tales and offering information about anything of relevance to their trips. We walked around the town, wasted $15 on two phone calls(bloody dodgy phone), took some snaps, had dinner and crashed out.
 
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After reading & seeing more of the trip report (since my last post) I have to say that the pics of the places you had the privilage of seeing are magic, absolutely amazing.

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
That is the trip of trips great job and thanks for sharing you country with the the Subaru fans from over the BIG pond.


Nate
 
After reading & seeing more of the trip report (since my last post) I have to say that the pics of the places you had the privilage of seeing are magic, absolutely amazing.

Regards
Mr Turbo

You should've been on our club's Flinders trip! See what you missed! :iconwink:
 
You should've been on our club's Flinders trip! See what you missed! :iconwink:
Yes it would have been nice to go on that trip with the club, but thems the breaks. :sadbanana:
I'm sure I'll get out there one day though. :)

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Absolutely stunning pictures, great report, good stuff!! :bcool: I love the video. A bit too crazy if you ask me, but kudos for going for it ;) One of these days, I'm gonna make it down under for an epic journey. Beautiful country!
 
Wilcannia ...

"...I could see Wilcannia approaching on the GPS but more exciting was the blue snake running through it.....yep - the once mighty Darling River! ......the river looked great. It was 4m deep and flowing. This time last year it was bone dry. This was a bit of a buzz for me. Anyway - the bloody camera went out of focus right at the moment we crossed the bridge.

Wilcannia itself was a hole. Lots of lovely old brick & sandstone buildings but they were all boarded up and derelict. The pub looked dodgy and the service station was shonky. We paid 1.66 for premium unleaded which was of questionable quality. Due to a gale force 40km/h headwind and a spare tyre on the roof we used it all up in 400km. ..."

In its Hey Day, when paddle steamers and wool were at their height, and Broken Hill was still just a range of hills on another sheep station, Wilcannia was known as 'The Queen City of the West'
Unfortunately, I think it was possibly the saddest town I saw on my trip last year. But still worth a look for its many old buildings, especially along the river in what was the old port area.

For anyone needing fuel in Wilcannia, try the BP Depot. Turn left after you cross the river, and continue until the old buildings end (~ 200 - 300 metres) it is quite close to the river.

I had no probs with the fuel, and cheaper than the Shell in town.

The IGA 'supermarket' is good for supplies if you are heading up the Darling, as there are only a couple of small 'general stores' between Wilcannia and Bourke. (Or Broken Hill in the other direction, come to that...)
 
Agreed...but it's so worth the drive in.

That's it....I'm going to have to upload the videos. Got some nice Mt Chambers gorge footage.

Not referring to the drive in (but serious gibber there), more your reference to dreaming business. Was agreeing that it is serious stuff. Involves one character chopping the top off a mountain.

Incredible array of petroglyphs there. I didn't take any pics of them becuase I don't take pics of Indigenous paintings / carvings for my own reasons.

A really special spot I would like to visit again one day.
 
Ahh yes the dreaming....

You could feel it - that's for sure.

Would your screen name happen to be of indigenous origin?
 
DAY 9: Marree to Coward Springs
Had a fairly average breakfast in Marree - toast, warm orange juice,cereal with warm milk. Still...it did the job I guess. Checked out of the pub and wandered around the town for a while. Actually, I can't even call it a town, it is more like a cluster of dwellings with a pub, police station, two petrol stations and a shop. We took some photos of the old Ghan train station and the rusting locos and relics.

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Big Turbo?
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Diesel-Electric Engine Room (Diesel motor runs a generator to power the electric motors.)
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We then headed across the way to the Lake Eyre Yacht Club (www.lakeeyreyc.org) which is not that close the the lake (around 60 km) but it is built like a yacht club on the red dirt.

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Bob from the yacht club gave us heaps of information about the area and told us ways that we can access the lake so we bought some merchandise and were on our way up the Oodnadatta Track.

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About 50km out of Marree there is a sculpture museum with some giant pieces at the side of the track that you can see for miles. We liked the double aircraft stuck in the sand, the robot, the Ghan Hover bus and the big steel dog.

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Another 20km and we saw our first glimpse of Lake Eyre! Man, that place is amazing. Lake Eyre is the most wonderful place in the world. There are birds everywhere and it looks like a beach on the ocean. We walked out into the warm waters and had a great time taking photos and marvelling at the place.

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Margaret Siding
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As the afternoon dragged on we thought we'd better find our campsite so we continued up the Oodnadatta to the Mound Springs Conservation Park. These weird natural land forms look like rock and sand mounds popping out of the ground but they have springs in the top of them. These things support life for miles around when there is little rain out here.

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A few kays later and we were at Coward Springs camping ground. The spring at this place was man made in the 1800's and had so much pressure that it created a huge wetland in the area. More recently it was plugged, rebored and it's flow slowed a bit. It is now fully controllable with taps and valves popping out of the ground.

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Attenborough!
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The birds at this place were fascinating - we took way too many photos. I got some great Attenborough-esque shots of birds doing their thing. We walked around and checked out the small but very interesting museum they had there which was full of old relics, photographs, art and stories of life on the old Ghan line. We then tried out the spring fed hot spa - which was not so hot. I'd say about 30 degrees or so which was nice on a 17 degree evening but getting out wet at 17 degrees (that is celsius for our friends OS) had me shivering a bit. After that, we went back to our campsite and had dinner - I cooked a delicious chicken pasta with pesto and Julie had tomato, barley and lentil soup.

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After some star gazing we decided to call it a day and retired to the tent.

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We clocked up about 4000-4500km. Due to my impeccable maintenance schedule I had to give the car an oil and filter change mid-trip but I'm getting pretty good at it so it just added some fun and memories to the trip.
 
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