MY97 Offroad Express. Garage Days. Vorsich, many pisc)

Hi everyone! Please check this out. My Subacar from Kazakhstan))
At last My dreams were filled and I build my own subamonster.
(sorry for my english;))

-Forester 97 SF5,
-2.0
-turbo,
-AT
-250 h/p.
1stok.jpg


First step suspension lift.

-Strut Blocks + 2'.
stoika-1.jpg

-Springs rear Nissan Terrano +0.6'
-SG5 Forester struts + 0.6'
-Wheels BF Goodrich Mud Terrain 215/75/15 +1.3'
BFMUD2.jpg

-Bullbar for fog lights.
5frbar.jpg

-Breathers transmission and frond diff in airfilter box
2-2.jpg

3-3.jpg

4-2.jpg

5-2.jpg

-Sump protection for engine and transmission - steel 3 mm. weight 20 kg.
15-1.jpg

-Snorkel Toyota Surf 185
7snorkfitted.jpg

-Tank fog lights from russian tank. Xenon inside.
8tankxen-2.jpg

8tankxen-3.jpg

8tankxen-5.jpg

-4WD switch
a3.jpg
 
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I don't think you'd wantt much more wheel travel is you look at the video of this thing.
 
stilson said:
The extended pipe and bottom spacer are only required as part of your lift right?

I have standard height so can I just tap the thread into the top of the old struts?

Do you know exactly which models of Audi these inserts are from?

Are they rebuildable?

Thanks.
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1.Yes, you're right, this required only in my or the same config. In factory config you can just put cartridge into your old strut. All dimension of the inserts are friendly to our struts.
2.You can do this easy. Just don't forget, you should disassemble your old struts and make a tube with screw-thread on the one side and weld it to your disassembled strut.
3.Bilst PNE3044 from Audi80, KYB from Toyota Camry'87
4. If you mean cartridges- they not.
Welcome mate!

jf1sf5 said:
Are there any longer cartridge that could give more wheel travel ?
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No, unfortunately there is no longer cartridge, but you can lift cartridge inside the strut, you should use longer spacer, and lift pan higher. In case a long length and bold springs you must make a strut extender. To prevent damage of the cartridge when whell extremely quick going down on non paved road. Sorry for english:biggrin:
 
I am really enjoying this thread, it's great stuff :biggrin:

And there's no need to apologize, your English is very good :raz:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Welcome mates!

Ok. If in this section all clear I'd like post about winch and propane system.

 
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Mate this is bloody brilliant! :monkeydance::discomonkey:

Your English is fine... ;)

Vy@ch said:
In case a long length and bold springs you must make a strut extender. To prevent damage of the cartridge when whell extremely quick going down on non paved road. Sorry for english:biggrin:
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This is the probllem I have, my struts "top out", ie when the wheel drops the struts are fully extended, giving a nasty clanking sound & very poor wheel droop.

Did you make these yourself? You seem to have a very good mechanical understanding...are you an engineer? Congrats on some excellent work! :biggrin::lildevil:
 
Sounds like you need an extender Nacha'! :rotfl:

Great looking winch setup there Vy@ch.
 
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Thanx again, I post reply and more pics when I come back from trout fishing tour, in monday.
Best regards.
 
Biesel said:
I don't think you'd wantt much more wheel travel is you look at the video of this thing.
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Yes, the car sits very high already.

But to limit the diagonal spin, nothings better than long travel shocks to keep contact with the ground, and that has nothing to do with a lift, even a 4' lift won't give you more wheel travel :iconwink:
 
jf1sf5 said:
Yes, the car sits very high already.

But to limit the diagonal spin, nothings better than long travel shocks to keep contact with the ground, and that has nothing to do with a lift, even a 4' lift won't give you more wheel travel :iconwink:
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If you fit 4inch lift blocks to the top of your struts you gained 4 inchs in travel.

Measure the centre of you wheel to the wheel arch, with the car jacked up. then fit you 4 inch lift blocks, now measure the same distance I promise you it will be about 4inchs further travel then before.
 
No the suspension drops for inches. It can't compress that 4 inches it's dropped, and therefore there is no gain in travel.
 
If it could compress 4 inchs as well you'd be gaining 8 inchs of travel over stock I said if you fit a 4inch lift block your wheel will travel down 4 inchs more then stock if it could travel down and up 4 inchs more then it would be 8inchs of travel gained.
 
Sorry, adding lift blocks doesnt increase "travel" just height. "Travel" is the distance the wheel travels from full droop to full compression.

In fact, adding 4" lift blocks to the strut top without making other modifications will actually reduce wheel travel as the other suspension components will reach their limit before the strut does, thereby limiting travel.

Raised springs, which raise height by ~35mm will also reduce wheel travel.

You'll see Vy@ch has made considerable changes to his suspension, gaining height as well as travel....he's been very thorough & thoughtful in the way he's approached it....great job! :lildevil:
 
If you are comparing static wheel travel to dynamic suspension travel. A long travel shock that allows say 4 inchs more dynamic suspension drop will not always allow more compression. usually that long travel shock will have a longer body are longer piston to allow this additional travel meaning that overall static travel is also increased thus by what you are saying long travel shocks also don't increase wheel travel over a stock car.
 
Also besides the swaybar, there is nothing linking the suspension travel from one side of the car directly to the other in the forester SH model at least anyway. They have what's called independent suspension. You've got to stop thinking about how a foz works in terms of an old live beam axel fourby.

Anyway old mates thread is not the place for these discussions.

So sorry for spamming up this thread just seem to be making a habit of this lately.
 
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