taza

Forum Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2010
Messages
3,820
Location
Perth, Western Australia
Since starting my apprenticeship I've been learning heaps and asking heaps of questions.
Thought I might mention a few things about your A/C and how to keep it going for years.

Firstly you should use for A/C for atleast 20mins once a week every week. Now I see alot of cars come in to get regassed, both new and old(10 year or more). I would say we have a 50/50 mix of new and old car, some just 2-3 years old that need regassing because they aren't cold anymore.

Now most people don't use their A/C over winter which causes all the seals to harden. This is because the gas and oil in the system isn't circulating around. When the seals harden then obviously the gas seeps out, sometimes fast, sometimes slow. It usually happens with the O-rings that connect the A/C compressor the the rest of the system. Running your A/C once a week will stop the seals harden and allow it to last a long time.

For example I will use my 2001 Forester. 12 years old and the A/C system has never been touched. I use my often, usually in short burst as it takes too much power away from my car.
Now when we(or any Auto Sparky, Aircon place or Mechanic) regas an A/C sytem we check how cold it gets. With your standard A/C System(NOT climate control) your temperature should get down to 4 degrees Celsius(39F). With Climate Control anywhere between 5-10 degrees Celcius (41-50F) is normal.
Getting back to my car, I put the temp gauge in just to see and this is the result.

20121117143353.jpg


Yep that's right, 4 degrees C! :biggrin:

Now another tip; with all our offroad we get mud, dirt, dust, sand, leaves and just everything everywhere usually :lol: :iconwink:
Now when I tested my A/C before the run in the pic above I only got 14 degrees C. Which is way off what it should be, I thought it needed a regas but after talking to some of the guys at work they thought the condenser (in front of the radatior/behind the grille) could be blocked. As it needs goo air flow it could be blocked up with dirt, mud and all that ****.

So I took the grille off, sprayed degreaser in there and with a medium pressure spray from the hose nossle I sprayed it throughly on both side. There was tonnes of beach sand, brown dirt and abit of mud that came out. I let it dry for 10min in the sun then instantly after starting the car and A/C it was really cold.

Anyway, a few tips there I thought I'd point out :iconwink:
 
I bet the evaporator (behind the dash?) could use a clean too, especially if you don't have a cabin filter. :biggrin:
 
Yes that could do.with a clean too. Thanks for adding that.
So everyone knows Subarus.don't come stock.with a.cabin air filter. I my evaporator is full of crap. Haha
 
Definitely agree with regular cleaning of the cabin filter - I do mine pretty much on a weekly basis. I simply can't believe how much dirt gets caught in there. However, I do spend a lot of time on unmade roads... I suppose in "normal" driving, it wouldn't need to be cleaned so often - I think the regular service replacement is every 37,500km.
 
I agree Taza.

And nothing defrosts a windscreen as well as both heater and air conditioner on full blast.

A further tip: One should never touch the inside of a windscreen with one's bare hands. The oils on our skin are comprised of molecules that are hydrophilic at one end, and hydrophobic at the other. They stick one end towards the glass, and attract water molecules at the other. This makes your w/s very hard to keep de-misted ... :(.

It can be cleaned off with methylated spirits (de-natured alcohol, for our American friends ;) ). Then wiped with a well-washed chamois (either real or synthetic).

"Road grime" has the same properties on the outside, but can be harder to clean off.

BTW, our SG and SH Foresters both appear to have come with cabin air filters fitted. The one in mine originally looks like a seedling planter :rotfl:.
They can be cleaned using considerable care not to damage the mesh.
 
Thanks for the tips taza :biggrin:

I think I'll be doing what you did to mine this w-end, as my A/C doesn't seem to be as cool (as it was) compared to when I first bought my Forry :bcool:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
?..

A further tip: One should never touch the inside of a windscreen with one's bare hands. The oils on our skin are comprised of molecules that are hydrophilic at one end, and hydrophobic at the other. They stick one end towards the glass, and attract water molecules at the other. This makes your w/s very hard to keep de-misted ... :(.

So THAT is why it is so damned hard to keep the touch screen on the IPad clean! :rotfl:
 
Great tips Taza. How much should we be charged for a regas if needed?

Thanks NL, since the price of gas has gone up over 300% thanks to this government around $230 is about right. We charge $225 and usually takes us an hour to 1.5hrs to do.
A few months ago it was only around $170 before the tax hit the R134a gas...

The past 2 days I've been working on a BMW X5, it's been the most painful, POS ever. BMW's are the worst cars to work on, nothing is ever easy. The whole A/C system was replaced and they were charged around the 2k mark.. Probably half of that is labour.
 
Gidday Taz

. . .

Now when we(or any Auto Sparky, Aircon place or Mechanic) regas an A/C sytem we check how cold it gets. With your standard A/C System(NOT climate control) your temperature should get down to 4 degrees Celsius(39F). With Climate Control anywhere between 5-10 degrees Celcius (41-50F) is normal.

. . .

Anyway, a few tips there I thought I'd point out :iconwink:

I just remembered your post on this subject, mate, so thought I would check mine (and add a few tags to the thread while I was at it ... ). Thanks for the tips.

One of the (many) reasons I sold Roo1 was that since the air-con had been overhauled and re-gassed with HFC -134a instead of R12 as required by law, the air-con was never really cold afterwards :(. Since the modern refrigerants are not as efficient as the old CFC-based ones, the internal and external radiators are not big enough to work properly with the newer refrigerants. Since joining this forum, I have discovered that there are suitable efficient replacements, but c'est la vie.

Being an SG with climate control, at idle it turns in around 12°C. Bump the revs up to 2,000 rpm, and that drops to 8-9°C.

Test conditions were:
  • stationary;
  • fan on full manual, highest setting;
  • dash vents only;
  • temperature control on minimum (as far anti-clockwise as it will go).
Just FWIW :cool:; very :cool: ... :lol:
 
You made me curious John, so I did the same thing.

AC on min, fan on max, running at idle for 10 minutes.

You can see the thermocouple in the vent running to the multimeter showing 7.4 degrees.
I have my mobile phone sitting on the radio, running Torque, which shows the RPM as 813.
And you can see the outside air temperature at the top, it's currently 29 in my garage.

After I took the photo, I upped the RPM to 2000 and sat there for a minute, but it didn't make much difference.


AC-temps_zpsc5733f69.jpg
 
Hopefully you left your garage door open, SJ ... :lildevil:.

Just did the same process with SWMBO's SH.

It showed 9.5°C using the same alcohol thermometer (I know, I know; alcohol thermometers are not usually very accurate ... ).

I suspect that the cabin air filter in hers needs attention, as did mine ... The crooks at Brighton Holden wanted to charge me "only" $100 to clean all the nasty bacteria out of it for us ... Their term, not mine ...

I was incredulous to discover the other day that mercury thermometers have been made illegal (a sick bird ... ) in many parts of the world! I will have to be extra careful not to break any of my set of laboratory thermometers that are stashed away somewhere with my darkroom gear ...
 
sjm looks like your foz has standard a/c not climate control?

:huh: :confused: ??

Exactly the same as our SH XS, and it is as described in the Owner's Manual as "Climate Control" ... See s.4, p.9 ...

Standard air conditioning has different shaped controls, with no "AUTO" functions on them ....

I might also add, that the SH climate control knobs and functions are almost identical to those in our SG XS.

Care to share how you reached your conclusion? :poke:
 
Gidday Thunder

That's true.

I ran it at full bore just to check that both cars were within spec.

I then cleaned the cabin air filter on the SH. It wasn't all that bad. I actually wish that it hadn't been serviced, as someone who did it previously (Doncaster Subaru? previous owner?) broke the glove box shock absorber mount at the dash end.

Basically have to replace half the under-structure of the dash to fix it ... :(
I think that I see a bodgie job by yours truly coming up ... :iconwink: :biggrin:. Since there is still a stub end there, I may be able to fit a bit of plastic over it, and stick a fine bolt and nut through the middle.

Being knee-capped by the mob is one thing - having one's own car's glove box do it is another altogether!!

BTW, checked the tyre pressures today when cool. It appears that Brighton Holden think that 38 psi all round is a reasonable figure for both F/R ... Gee, only a mere 6 psi over the maximum recommended on the vehicle tyre placard - approx 20% over-inflated ... I thought it felt a bit "floaty" ...
 
My bad, i see now the 2.0D has dual CC hence why i guess the controlls look so different.

P1030033_zps74815524.jpg
 
No worries. My turn next time ... :biggrin:.

It is little things like this that make it so flaming difficult to determine exactly and precisely what one has one's hands on when buying a s/h vehicle.

When I bought Roo1 (1993 Impreza), it had a revolutionary improvement over most cars air-conditioning - it had a vent each side in the rear!

Both our Foresters have two vents each side in the rear. It does make their air-con/heating marginally better for those in the back :lol: .

For those in the back of my SG, they just want their amputated legs back ... :rotfl:. Just joking. It really isn't quite that bad ... But certainly no lounge room like the SH, Austin Kimberley/1800, A Statesman, etc either.
 
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