Lifting an L series. What needs extending?

Luke

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Sep 26, 2008
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I purchased a lift kit for my 1986 Subaru GL. It's a 4" lift from SJRLift.com

Its too rainy to put the lift on right now so what will I have to look forward to when I do go to put it on? What all needs to be extended. I'm assuming the shifter linkage, ebrake setup, and AWD lever for sure will need adjusting. How are all the coolant lines and everything else connecting to the engine? Anything I need to watch for?
 
With my 2 inch lift, the only thing sthat altered (other than the bolts), was and extension in the steering linkage, and some reshaping of the 4wd lever.

For a 4inch lift, I would expect the brake lines would need to be lengthened, a longer steering link extension, more major reshaping of the 4wd lever, not sure about the gear lever, minor exhaust mods, and a good sense of balance for cornering on stilts.:lol:

Beigewagon.
 
so I wonder how hard it would be to relocate the AWD lever higher up? I imagine its a linkage type. Has anyone extended the linkage just by welding a chunk in it?
 
I just started lifting the car starting with the backend. The transmission stays in the same place for some reason? I'm thinking this must really mess up my driveshaft angle... I might not actually have to modify as much though.

I couldn't get the 4 bolts off the diff bracket on my car. I ended up cutting the bracket off and then extending it the same amount the lift would. So far it worked really good other then I dropped the diff on my index finger and now I can't move it and it looks like I'm going to loose my finger nail!

I'll try and get some photos of the bracket today.
 
Luke said:
I just started lifting the car starting with the backend. The transmission stays in the same place for some reason? I'm thinking this must really mess up my driveshaft angle... I might not actually have to modify as much though.
Click to expand...

The gearbox will drop down with the blocks used to bring the radius rod plate down. How this works is one of the three bolts are used for the gearbox crossmember, so the gearbox will in fact drop down once you do the front section.

The gearbox linkages can be cut and shut with a piece of pipe that fits over the shaft - weld and grind the shaft (with the pipe on the shaft but moved outta the way) then slide the pipe over the joining weld and weld the pipe at both ends.

With a four inch kit you'll probabily want to do this - even shape the rods if that works. Your gear stick would be so far into the hole in the floor you'd have fun getting any gear at all!

Good luck with it - get a second selector setup if you're worried about botching the set you've got already...

Cheers

Bennie
 
So I'm almost done the lift after 3 days of work and a crushed index finger on my right hand(diff fell on it when I was making a custom bracket)

I had to extend the steering shaft by 2" and I had to remove the clips that hold the ebrake right where the radius rod connects. Then I had to chop an inch or two out of the stock lower rad hose(then go buy a new one because for some reason the old one wouldn't fit back onto the radiator)

We were about to take it for a drive but the shifter linkage didn't work even though the guy that makes the lifts said it would.

I took El_Freddo's advice and cut the linkage and then extended it. It had to move about 1/4" and of course it took two tries. Tomorrow morning I just need to clearance one of the bolts its hitting the bar that connects the transmission to the shifter plate. Even with the lift kit the shifter stays in the factory spot pretty much.

The AWD selector will need reworking a bit. Where 2wd used to be is now 4wd high. So it will need extending as well.

My car has been fighting me the whole way. I had to get a 420ft pound air impact just to get the shock bolts off in the back.
 
Glad to hear you can now move the subi - I reckon you'll have to extend the rest of the shafts the same length as what you have with the gear selector shaft.

Having the gear stick up in the factory position will be sweat! It feels weird to drive a subi where the gearstick pivot point is below the standard position!

Cheers

Bennie
 
Ya it did tilt down a little bit because the front support bar is weirdly attached to the transmission output. But it feels stock when shifting.

I'm going to go in right away here and hopefully get everything fixed.
 
Overall, what is your opinion of the SJR kit? They guy who makes them lives 5 minutes away from me, so I'm thinking I should just go and buy it from him.
 
I thought the kit was pretty well made. Its not a simple bolt on job(atleast mine wasn't) but it makes a lift a LOT easier!

Some people brought up issues of strength because they don't make their kits out of solid blocks or square tubing. There's no way this kit will break. These parts are definately stronger then the factory components.

I had to decide between several brands of lift kits. If he lives near you then definately go with his lift. It ended up costing me almost $800 after duties, shipping and exchange rates. Ordering from a different company would mean you would have to ship something from australia and that wouldn't be cheap.
 
PICS! PICS! PICS!!!

Cheers

Bennie
 
I haven't taken any pictures now that everythings done but here's some that I took during.

I love how we got the rear swing arm to push down far enough :ebiggrin:

dsc00055irr.jpg


Shifter Linkage extended and painted:
shifterlinkagecomplete.jpg


AWD Selector extended and painted. I definately wish I would have made this adjustable when I did it! It would make things WAY easier! I plan on redoing it using a simple bolt and a really long nut. I'll simply undo one end and spin it to adjust it.

awdlevercomplete.jpg
 
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