CV Boot & Axle Replacement guide

Are you using subaru cv's and hilux boots taza or aftermarket cv's? I've managed to flog out the aftermarket ones i bought in 60,000k's thinking of going oem
 
I didnt take off the brakes when I did mine, just used a punch to knock out the axle from the hub. Pretty much did it this way:

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udPHQC0BgwE"]How to replace a worn out cv joint & boot - subaru legacy - YouTube[/ame]
 
I don't do it this way...

I take the wheel off, then unbolt the sway bar, the wishbone from the chassis and out it comes, very easy !

Same for the rear, just take the long bolt out (the one that holds the 2 lateral links), and you don't even need to remove the sway bar !
 
Does the SG Forester have the pin at the gearbox end that you need to knock out to remove the shaft?
 
Nope. You use a large pry bar and pop it out. Be aware that when you do this most of your gearbox oil will come out. It might be a better idea to drain iy first.

Then removr the two strut bolts, turn the hub to the side and pull it out of the hub first then out of the gearbox.

I can usually get the job done in around 20mins to grt in or out.
If you get stuck send me a message.
 
Forum member Superu_legacy has had nothing to contribute here:poke::lildevil:?
 
Taza, dont remove the strut bolts as that removes your camber setting, requiring a wheel alignment. Just pop out the ball joint from the hub (remove the bolt then open the housing with a screwdriver) then swing the whole strut out & the shaft comes out of the gearbox. First loosen the axle in the hub end by tapping with a hammer.
 
Just mark the bolts before you remove. Put back in same location. I prefer to take out strut bolts than bash out ball joints.
 
It's easier to remove the 14mm grub screw that holds the ball joint into the hub than remove the strut bolts i find.
 
idw said:
It's easier to remove the 14mm grub screw that holds the ball joint into the hub than remove the strut bolts i find.
Click to expand...

I had a look in the manual and yes just a single bolt holds the ball joint in, much easier. I was thinking more like the ball joints in other cars where you would have a much bigger task at hand.
 
I also find that taking the top strut bolt out is the easiest. Knock out the pin holding the shaft on, take out the top strut bolt with the bottom one loose and that is enough to get the shaft off the gearbox, no disconnecting sway bar or anything. As long as you mark the position of the camber bolt its all good.
I have never tried to take the whole shaft out though as I normally just replace the CV boot under the car so I am not sure if this method would give you enough play to get the axle out with the exhausts in place. You may have to take both strut bolts out and disconnect the sway bar to remove the axle completely.
 
I also turn the wheel all the way towards the side Im removing before jacking up the car. That way there's enough room to take out the whole shaft of the hub.
 
idw said:
It's easier to remove the 14mm grub screw that holds the ball joint into the hub than remove the strut bolts i find.
Click to expand...

idw said:
I also turn the wheel all the way towards the side Im removing before jacking up the car. That way there's enough room to take out the whole shaft of the hub.
Click to expand...

Yep, this is by far the easiest way to do it with no marking camber bolts, etc. You can easily turn the wheel with the car jacked up.

NOTE: camber bolts do break! The more times they get torqued, the more likely this is to happen. I recently replaced both of mine as they have been torqued too many times for my liking. If one breaks esp while cornering you will most likely lose control :eek::(:shake:
 
Nacha, I like to turn the wheel before starting the work. don't like moving cars on stands or jacks if it can be avoided. But i only jack one side up at a time, would be ok with both wheels in the air
 
I just jack up the front & put it on chassis stands. Allows more freedom. But I totally agree the ball joint method is bar far the easiest :biggrin:
 
Great guide wish I had just replaced my boots rather then putting junk aftermarket axles
 
Yes, OEM Subaru axles are by far the best & tolerate increased CV angles much better than all of the aftermarket axles.

Make sure you reboot with OEM Subaru CV boots.

I'm still running the original 20 year old axles front & '97 WRX axles rear, both have been rebooted, and this is with 2.5" increased CV angle front & 3.5" rear!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I should start another thread and poll on how many people have had aftermarket axle issues.
I had 2 Cardon select from rock auto and after a year my car started shacking on acceleration only.
Warrantied the axles and problem gone

Put same axles in my brothers 2001 and it’s starting to vibrate
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Oem subaru axles are best. I choose oem used ones from scrapyard over any crap aftermarket. They hold like tanks with 2" lift with broken rubber boot for couple month no prob. No sounds no nothing from there. And duno how much they where used before get to scrapyard yet. No vibrations at 120km/h. No extra sound no nothing. I have allways couple for change for front and rear if i would need. Most times just changing broken rubber boot and they good again.
Aftermarket rubber boots dont hold at all.
 
Back
Top