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  #11  
Old 13th July 2017, 01:49 PM
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jf1sf5 jf1sf5 is offline
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You did an upper engine clean, right ? With high pressure water and soak ? Think it could come from there...
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  #12  
Old 13th July 2017, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duncanm View Post
wow - bizarre. I'm with the 'WAG' guy - it sounds like some failure on the clutch assembly which has caused it to jam - failure of the clutch plate or loose bolts maybe.

If the clutch suddenly failed - I wouldn't be surprised if that killed the input shaft primary gearset (or whatever its called) which maybe explains his bits of metal in the trans.. maybe that secondary failure didn't happen to you if you're lucky (though not being able to get into gear isn't a good sign).

Is there still a flywheel inspection port on your model? Big rubber bung at the bottom of the bell housing, or maybe no bung? Try pulling that out and see if any bits fall out, or inspect your garage floor..
Scratch that theory.

It failed while out of gear, clutch out. Clutch still works.

Something has failed on the input shaft or thereabouts
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  #13  
Old 13th July 2017, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jf1sf5 View Post
You did an upper engine clean, right ? With high pressure water and soak ? Think it could come from there...
Upper engine clean in a can, no water necessary - It's a recommended service procedure every few oil changes. Like Seafoam products. Can is sprayed into the intake with engine running, burns off carbon build up inside manifold and cylinder. I was following can procedure and 'burning off' the product at the end i.e. holding revs at 3000k with car in neutral when it went pop.

Just got a quote for reco'd transaxle, new clutch and steering rack from Subabits in Melbourne, it was less than I was preparing for. The car might be off the road for a while but I'll probably just have the work done.
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  #14  
Old 13th July 2017, 10:33 PM
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For those playing at home - Quoted $1980 AUD for reco'd gearbox, $720 for clutch but possibly more if its dual mass (base model X so doubt it but wouldn't know), $395 for steering rack, prices are supplied and fitted inc. a new rear main seal too. Wish I could spend that money on a lift kit and suspension...
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  #15  
Old 14th July 2017, 04:22 AM
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Aaaarrrgghhhh ...

Very sad news, Rambler!

Check the head gaskets while it is all in bits ...
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  #16  
Old 15th July 2017, 12:50 PM
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After sleeping on it I'm starting to think that it might not be wise to repair.

Payed $6,500 for the car 4 months ago, assuming that is still the repaired value.

Repair quote was $3,000, but apparently more with a dual mass flywheel. I can't find much info but my car probably does have a dual mass flywheel. If I can find out for sure and then how much more it might be the decider.

Car has other small issues besides the failure and steering rack but any cheap car is going to have small running repairs or on the horizon. Biggest one is that the tyres are 5 years old and probably have only a year left in them.

I was prepared for a big 4k job to do the head gaskets and the clutch at some point in the remaining life of the car. At least I would have the clutch done with this repair. But my big concern is the prospect of having to do the head gasket at some point, and probably other stuff like belts as they're 60k old now... If I had to do that within a few years now I'd have spent a fair bit more than the car value. So important to work out if that's even likely.

As it sits in my driveway it's maybe worth a grand. If I were to add that to the 3,500 it would cost me in repairs anyway, I could probably get a decent Mitsubishi Challenger with similar KMs. As I'm now on my third Subaru in 6 months, two of which have died within weeks of buying them, I'm not really feeling a lot of joy for this one or another one.

On the other hand fixing the car would leave me with a car worth 6,500 again, so 2 grand in gained value over selling and getting a Challenger. But that doesn't matter because I was hoping to drive whatever I own for the rest of its life; if the Challenger is trouble free for 100,000 but the Subie needs head gaskets before then, it's 2 grand gained the other way. Both have similar fuel costs, Subaru is safer and has better road manners. But Challenger is a more capable 4WD, and I was planning to do a lot of mods that I might not need to do to a Challenger.

Obviously the prospect of something new is more exciting than dumping a bunch of money just to get back exactly the same car I had 2 days ago. Maybe I've also lost a bit of faith in Subies. But I'm trying to stay level headed. Any decision is a few weeks off anyway. For now I bought a cheap car cover on eBay because I'd rather not look at it
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  #17  
Old 15th July 2017, 05:35 PM
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Rally Rally is offline
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My suggestion would be to try someone else to do your pre purchase inspections because it would seem from your history whoever has been doing it in the past is not very good. Either that or you ignored their advice. A good service history is vital for any car you buy second hand. One can only speculate as to what the failure is until a proper inspection is done. The dual mass flywheel is prone to fail and I replaced mine when it failed with a standard flywheel.
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  #18  
Old 15th July 2017, 11:53 PM
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It sounds like you needed to go for a drive after changing the oil in the box. This would've ensured that the oil was in all the nooks and crannies in the gearbox.

To me it sounds like a bearing was dry, most likely in the selector rings that are connected to the selector rods.

It's still very odd and I'd be keen to pull the box down to have a look at it and get to the bottom of what went wrong.

Shame to hear you've had so many issues with subarus. That's not been my experience with them. I've still got my first Subaru as has my mother inlaw. My sister has had three with the current one her first she's actually owned :P

If your car does long country runs I wouldn't bother with the UEC treatment. I did it to my ej22 with very little results/gains.

SGs are pretty thin in the yards but you can find parts online cheaper than going through a mechanic - but if you're not mechanically minded or have mates that are (and willing to help out) the mechanic route would be best for ease and piece of mind.

Very sorry to hear about the gearbox and your situation. I hope it all works out for you in the end.

Cheers

Bennie
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  #19  
Old 16th July 2017, 10:32 AM
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Sorry to hear. The price you have quoted for the head gaskets and clutch is way over the top. Might be worth talking to John Bailey at Volks-Baru.
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  #20  
Old 17th July 2017, 04:26 AM
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I'm getting a feeling might be the input shaft. The bearing tends to wear out & like Bennie said, may have run dry causing a failure. Which would explain both the jamming & loss of drive if the shaft has moved out of position

Also speak to these guys for an extra opinion/quote:

Volks-Baru - John
Ph: 03 97935655
1362 Heatherton Rd, Dandenong North, Vic. 3175

Lucas Automotive - Lucas
Phone: 03 9553 3995

92 Levanswell Rd, Moorabbin VIC 3189, Australia

Kingston Garage (Bosch Service Centre) - Ross Hallett
Ph: 03 9551-2402
63 Kingston Rd, Heatherton
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